Ahem, it begins.

Discussion in 'DIY' started by Dustin B, Jun 21, 2019.

  1. Dustin B

    Dustin B Well-Known Member

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    HVAC guy is finished. Ended up increasing my original quote by a little over $2k. Sure hope it was worth it.

    He built me 3 muffler boxes with internal baffles and lined with Mason Akousti-Liner R. He wasn't able to test with deep base but the 3 octaves 500hz and up he tested showed a 20db drop. Add the Thermoflex MKE and regular flex vent and I'll hopefully see a 30dB or more decrease through the ducts. He also built a custom cold air return box lined and with alternating baffles of Mason Akousti-Liner R above and below the hole into the main duct.
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  2. Carl V

    Carl V Bronze Member Donor Top Poster

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    We’ll be curious of the red outcome as Nd your opinion
     
  3. Mike B

    Mike B Bronze Member Donor Top Poster

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    Holy sheet metal batman, that's a lot of ducting! Sure looks like 2 grand more than just flex duct.
     
  4. Dustin B

    Dustin B Well-Known Member

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    Master suite is ready for drywall and the work I had to do in the theater to get the various inspections done is complete as well. Had electrical, framing and vapor barrier inspections I needed to complete before I could get drywall started in the master suite. Used to just not bothering with inspections, they sure are a pain in the ass to the order I'd other wise complete work. I'm also very annoyed that in this day and age that the codes aren't just available online. But people who did the lobbying still want their easy money so code books are $150+ and non of it is free online like it should be.

    No issues with the framing inspection. Some minor things for the vapor barrier that didn't take that long to fix (point less tying into the back of stud spaces that didn't matter and requiring acoustiseal where it really doesn't matter. Electrical was the biggest pain. Friend giving me information from what passed his inspection didn't match with my inspector. Basically they require neutrals in all light switch boxes now. So where you'd normally have 3 conductors for a 3 way switch you now need 4 conductors. Friend used two 14/2 wire bundles and passed his inspection. I used the same, and didn't, because you also aren't allowed to run conductors for the same circuit in separate wire bundles. If you want to do that now, you need to use a 14/4 which isn't easily available. So the new code basically makes it impossible to have lights between a pair of 3 way switches you have to run power to the switch first. When I asked the inspector what the reason was for the single bundle, he paused and then said he didn't know :P

    So overall inspections were going better than I expected, only cost me a day and a half of time and about $40 in wire wasted. That is until the vapor barrier inspection. No issues in the master suite, but the theater room she was concerned about the dead space behind the screen wall. I have to submit new cross section drawings with more details about the materials being used and it sounds like they are going to make me add active ventilation to the space. If they make me put heat and cold air returns into that space I'll be more than a little annoyed. That will cause moisture issues in the winter with the bay window. I guess as long as I can figure out how to add it without compromising the sound proofing and making it easy to block it during the winter it won't be that bad.

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    You can see 2 of the 28 tapered furring strips I had to cut in this shot. The side walls are an inch out of plumb because of the shifting on the north side of house. Happened soon after it was built I'm sure and hasn't moved since. Don't know how I would have cut all those strips without my bridge crosscut setup. Cut 2x4 into 4 foot length and did 1" to 1/2" strips and 1/2" to 0 strips and then just narrow crown stapled them onto the existing studs.
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    And here's the framed screen wall and riser so I could get the framing inspection passed.
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  5. Carl V

    Carl V Bronze Member Donor Top Poster

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    Whoa.
     
  6. Barry_NJ

    Barry_NJ Well-Known Member

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    Really nice work!!!
     
  7. Dustin B

    Dustin B Well-Known Member

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    Drywall is up and mudded in the master suite. Hired that out. Primer and two coats of paint on. Figured out after that the paint says to add almost a cup of water per gallon if humidity is under 50%. Have enough left for a 3rd coat I'll thin first to hopefully remove some roller marks I'm not happy with. That will happen after I finish tiling.

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    Got the shower floor leveled.

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    Got the door hung in a custom jamb I built.

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    Then it was on to all the Schluter stuff.

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    Linear drain tray and 27" linear drain. Kerdi foam board for walls and their pre-formed curb. Ditra heat mats and floor heat in the shower, hall, bathroom, toilet room and closets (learned what a megohmmeter was and used it to test the cables). Banding and their faucet trims. Tomorrow is the water test for the shower then I'll be on to the rest of the floor heat and tiling the floor followed by tiling the shower.

    Also decided not to build the vanity as two 24" base cabinets and a 12" just fit in the space. Full closer and vanity set ordered and on its way. Quartz slab we bought months ago will start getting cut to size soon by the stone guy.

    Sent from my LM-Q910 using Tapatalk
     
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  8. Mike B

    Mike B Bronze Member Donor Top Poster

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    Sweet! I love the linear drain and the heated floors.
     
  9. Dustin B

    Dustin B Well-Known Member

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    The Ditra Hear system is pretty slick. 120V or 240V cables in lengths for different square footage coverage. Pick the one that gives the coverage and works with the electrical circuit you have. Buy the mat in sheets or rolls. Put the mat down over wooden subfloor with modified thin set or unmodified if on cement or other Schluter water proofing membranes with 1/4x1/4 drowel. Then snap the cable into the grooves on the mat with a grout float. 3 stud spacing for 120V and alternating 2 stud 3 stud if 240V. The mat is a decoupling membrane so you don't need the really thick subfloor you used to for tile. Run the cold leads up the wall to a 2 gang box with a single gang mud ring. Install their thermostat and wire it up.

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  10. Barry_NJ

    Barry_NJ Well-Known Member

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    Okay, but how's the theater coming?

    LOL, just kidding, great work!
     
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  11. Dustin B

    Dustin B Well-Known Member

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    The theater is not progressing. I have to do some more drawings and submit to the city.They are concerned the dead space between the screen wall and bay window needs to have active hvac. Not sure how I'm going to do it and not compromise the sound proofing. And if I can't turn the hvac off in winter, I know I will have condensation issue. Not the it might happen if something comes in from outside they are concerned about.

    Got one wall tiled this weekend. Doing 5x8 feet with 3"x12" tile takes forever.

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    Link to full size image as the Tapatalk reduced size one looks terrible.

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/UFMDksQ8Zxe1fuvb6
     
  12. Barry_NJ

    Barry_NJ Well-Known Member

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    Is it really necessary to put a fake wall in there? Can't you just hang some blackout curtains in front of the window and be done with it? May be better off removing the window and completing the wall(?) Stash the window someplace so you could reinstall if you ever wanted to(?)
     
  13. Dustin B

    Dustin B Well-Known Member

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    The bay window helps with the outside appearance quite a bit. Removing it and filling in the siding and fake stone would be difficult too impossible with the fading of what's there.

    The bay window is also coupled to the front wall so it wouldn't be isolated like the rest of the walls with whisper clips and double 5/8s drywall with green glue. It would really transfer sound into the wall and upstairs to the bedroom above. Doing the screen wall allows for the only break in the decoupled constrain layer damping to be a concrete floor and a single door into a basement furnace room.
     
    Last edited: May 5, 2020
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  14. Dustin B

    Dustin B Well-Known Member

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    Finished tiling the shower walls.
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    Got the floor heat cable laided out. Took some creativity but managed to get it to end exactly where i wanted it to (cable is 250' long).
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    Floor was all dry fit and I have half of it installed now. 4' long tiles are a challenge to work with. They weren't cross cutting with a score cutter, and I'm regretting buying the table saw style instead of the sliding table Ridgid wet saw. I got the table saw style for rip cutting the 4' tiles, but cross cutting is a challenge and it has serious run out issues so I think re-seating it on a sliding table to rip would have worked as well or better. But the table saw style worked and it's much smaller and easier to store.
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  15. Carl V

    Carl V Bronze Member Donor Top Poster

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    looking good....waiting for Barry to come in and ask About the Theater : }
     
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  16. Dustin B

    Dustin B Well-Known Member

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    I was waiting for someone to point out I thought I'd be done the master suite in 2019 and on my way to being finished the theater by now.
     
  17. Barry_NJ

    Barry_NJ Well-Known Member

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    Great progress!
     

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