Discussion in 'DIY' started by CJ, Jun 17, 2018.
OK so this is “Do It With Contractors” but oh well. Before photos now. Work starts in 2 weeks.
I did my deck with contractors too. That would have hurt me bad if I did it.
Is it a tear down or use the structure and add new decking and railings?
Think composit for where you step.
Teardown, they don't want to put a 30 year product on 13 year old substructure. Plus the footing will be in the wrong spot as we're going from 9x12 to 12.5x18.
We're doing Timbertech composite, aluminum railing with a "drink rail".
That't too much deck for me to DIY too. That seems like a high sun area. Are the composites better with UV stuff now? They used to have a real problem with fading.
I was talking to a guy a few weeks ago that flew in for my son's girlfriends graduation. He's a professional deck builder and he does them for a lot of TV shows and some of the big "renovate your house" reveal shows. He says they only use IPE wood. It's a hardwood from Brazil. I'd never even heard of it prior to that conversation.
Are you going to sell your deck? I tore down my pool finally and sold my deck. I little surprised someone wanted it, but when you flipped it over the boards looked pretty good.
Anyhow, good luck with the project.
30 year warranty includes fading. I think its a far cry from what it was 5-10 years ago when it looked like plastic boards.
Ipe is very hard and durable but it will turn grey/ashen with time. I think the cost is equivalent to high end composites. Composites IMO has one problem it becomes extremely hot under foot in full sun hot enough to blister children's soles must wear sandals. I found an alternative not as expensive but better than standard kiln dried pine.
MasterDeck Pressure Treated Decking
I was going to use it to replace the decking but my contractor strongly suggested that I simply replace the badly checked planks with kiln dried decking and repaint it. He just finished the job came out looking nice.
We were given the option of pressure treated lumber, cedar or composite. We knew that we're not good on maintenance so we went composite. We're picking a light color due to the heat factor but yes, it can get hot. We have a retractable awning over the seating side of the deck and the deck is on the east side of the house.
For me this would be DIY. Currently I have a 9x5 deck down torn down and re framed on the front of my house, working on stair stringers now. 9' wide steps, 9 steps down. It is a pain in the ass. This kind of stuff is DIY with a crew of capable friends only. I used a composite product called Zuri. It is what is called capped composite. IPE is for sure the wood to use if going with wood. It will turn gray or "silver" in a couple of years, and there is nothing a home owner can do about it. I also don't use wooden railing anymore. Composite and IPE are both expensive. For me a 12 foot Zuri deck board is $72 plus tax.
Looking forward to the after pictures.
The Timbertech looks like good stuff. I have some Zuri a couple years old now down by the lake. It looks like the day I installed it.
The awning and being on the east side will certainly help. You could perhaps set up a mister near the sunny part of the deck to cool it. Aqua Misters- Low Pressure Permanently Mounted Water Mister
Jeff yes composite has come a long way. There are different grades of course, and you need to frame properly for composite. Joist spacing are closer etc. if this is not done there will be problems. It also moves (expands and contracts) with temperature so spacing and expansion allowances need to be taken into consideration. It is one of those things where you should by the best quality you can afford.
We went with the highest end TimberTech. We're spending too much on this house but we're planning another 10 years there so this is for us. Someone is going to get a really nice house when we move and its going to sell very quickly but we won't recoup the average % you see quoted on different types of projects.
To add to what Chris said, I did some research on composite decking two years ago. Construction wise the recommended joist spacing is 12inch on center. Use of hidden fasteners automatically adjusts the gap between planks, and if I recall correctly makes them floating joints for better expansion/contraction. Also, the cut ends should be sealed to reduce moisture penetration into the core. At that time the contractor was recommending Azek over Timbertech. Apparently Timbertech uses wood fiber in the core and there was a mold issue with it. Azek uses inorganic fillers. Both Azek and Timbertech are from the same company. The link below is a nice articles decking.
All About Composite Decking
I was thinking the same thing about the home we sold last year CJ and you are correct about the market position you are aiming for. Rather than look at the dollars invested, we felt the quality work we put into areas like the kitchen and master bath were main drivers for it selling in 48 hrs and at 10% over market price. A quick sale goes a long way when you have a lot of other things in motion.
There a couple of ways to do the fastening, hidden fasteners and the camo system. I chose the camo system for some reason. Camo is slick, I am sure hidden fasteners are as well.
I'm blowing big dough on my reno's but I'm going to be here for the duration, so the upgrades will be fully enjoyed and utilized. They should last longer than I do.
my last deck was clear Cedar
...sealed and stained, in hot humid OKC.
Stainless Screws. 25+ years
It's still fine. some boards needed replacing.
mostly from end grain rot. I've done the trex for friends.
not bad. has it's pluses and minuses. Present house has
a wood deck...they coated the top with a terrible drk brown
textured non slip material. I hate it and not looking forward to
repairing or replacing.
Good luck CJ & have fun, and enjoy.
are you gonna build some sorta cover, gazebo- Pergola sorta shade
aspect. Even Sunsails?
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